The selected line associated with the selected point will be emphasized as a bold red line. In Point Editing Mode, the selected point will be displayed in white while all other points will be dark grey. Click away from the design to stop editing.Adjust the point by moving it or deleting it.To exit the Point Editing Mode, click on a blank part of your screen or return to the regular selection mode by clicking on the Select Tool. Only single, ungrouped line selections may be point edited. This allows you to edit any points of your image. To enter the Point Editing Mode, either double-click a selected image or use the Edit Points Tool which will open in the Quick Access Toolbar. This will be the second icon down that looks like this: This tool is great for customizing your designs, adding weed lines, and building specific shapes. This allowed for the whole process to be automated.Let’s start our tour of Silhouette Studio’s Version 4.1! Specifically, we’re going to talk about the Edit Points Tool and all that you are able to do with it.įor starters, you can locate the Edit Points Tool on the toolbar on the left-hand side of the page. Then, in the advanced cut settings, by line colour, I applied the user defined settings I created for shrink plastic (autoblade, thickness 33, speed 5, blade varying from 1 to 4). I duplicated the shape several times in the same position, giving each copy a different line colour. Not only is this handy and saves time, it means you are less likely to knock and damage the blade. Instead of setting the blade manually, the Cameo 'punches' this special blade to the setting that you specify. One of the things that sold the Cameo 3 to me was the automatic blade. If not, just keep going - softly, softly catchy monkey! Send to with cut blade at 1, full pressure (thickness 33), speed 5 and double cut.Īt this point your shape should be fully and cleanly cut.Blow away any dust from the blade and set to 1.Start with the blade at 0, full pressure (thickness 33), speed 5 and double cut. The trick is an approach that Brian uses when making marquetry with the Curio - we do lots of passes, gradually increasing the blade setting as it penetrates deeper and deeper, finally cutting all the way through.ĭon't unload the mat between passes, this will ensure that the cut will be in the identical position. Instead, it's dense and the blade can't cut through the media in a single pass. The plastic isn't thick like craft foam, so it doesn't need a deep cut blade. This is a mistake! Let's refer back to my blade tutorial and our number one rule - use as little blade as possible. I watched a review in which the person tried to cut Shrink Plastic with a deep cut blade exposed to the maximum setting. STEP THREE: Using Brian's Marquetry approach I find the easiest way to scale your shape is to make it the size you want after it's shrunk and then scale to 264.5% as below: The shrinkage by 7 times actually refers to the area, so this equates roughly to a third smaller by width and height.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |